Tuesday, December 12, 2006

something in the air

Though it looks like a remote mountain village on the map, Dharamsala and its surrounding communities are teeming with life. The population is predominantly Tibetan, though there are a number of Indians living here, many from Kashmir. It's a place that's good for the soul, I've decided. From almost anywhere in town, you can glimpse high peaks, and gaze down into the valley. Mist comes and goes, and the views change with the light of day. In the afternoons, the weather has turned stormy, bringing downpours, wind, fog, those snappy mountain thunderstorms, and hail. We were sitting in a cafe having lunch yesterday when the power went out, the wind picked up, and the hail began. It didn't actually look that bad - really small hail and it wasn't too cold - so we decided to venture out and run a few errands before going back to the hotel. Outside, we heard some excited yelling and looked up to see a man up a telephone pole monkeying around with the cables. Three men on the ground were trying to unroll a giant spool of electrical wiring to get the power back on, dragging it across other lines in the process. They had a small audience, everybody laughing and shouting suggestions and warnings to the men.

The people here are wonderful. We noticed it the first day, and it hasn't changed or dampened. This morning, I simply ordered tea and cereal for breakfast, and when the food came, the waiter served it with such joy - there is a real sense of true joy, and honest giving to those around you. It's a part of Tibetan culture that I had known about but never experienced, and something I hope to carry into my own life.

I have also learned some about Tibetan Buddhism, as some young men befriended us yesterday and took us through the main temple here. There were several parts to the temple, dedicated to different gods, and as we went through they explained the gods - it's a much more colorful religion than the Buddhist philosophy I've studied at home. We're learning how to make Tibetan bread later today, and possibly taking a yoga class. Tomorrow we'll try to pack a lunch and head for a hike - there are some amazing places to walk to around here. The air has been cold, and clean, and good for my lungs - though hiking these steep streets certainly reminds me that we're at 6- or 7000 feet.

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