frenetic and famous

I had a relaxing last day in Udaipur yesterday - since I had seen most of the sights and done my shopping, I took to wandering around some of the less-touristy areas. I met some very kind local artists who showed me how they do their work, creating miniature paintings in the studio next to their shop. They start with raw pigment and grind it into powder to make the paint, which they layer onto silk to make intricate scenes - animals, couples, castles. I met a couple from Ireland and Australia, with whom I had dinner and watched the obligatory Octopussy, which every hotelier will remind visitors, was partly filmed in Udaipur.

After another overnight train, this time in 2nd class - with many people around but my own curtained-off area, I arrived in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. It is a frenetic and unhappy city, with dilapidated palaces that smell of urine, where the corners are brown where the men spit tobacco. I am now also famous. Teenagers ask me to pose while they take pictures - but no requests for autographs yet. They do have cycle-rickshaws, which are pretty cool, and I hired one for Rs 200 to take me around the city. One day was enough, though, and I'm happy to be moving on to Agra tomorrow.